Bình Định

Bình Định, the martial-arts country of central Vietnam, takes pride in bánh xèo tôm nhảy, made with shrimp so fresh they are still jumping; in bún chả cá Quy Nhơn, thick with the taste of the sea; and in the tangy, springy nem of chợ Huyện — the gift no local wedding or death anniversary can do without.